Setúbal Peninsula

Guincho is undoubtedly one of Europe’s hottest summer wave spots, attracting various international contests. The thermally reinforced Nortada allows regular sessions from May to August. Gusty winds swing between west-north-west and north-westerly (cross-on to cross-shore from the right) and gradually increase through the day, often reaching Force 7 by afternoon. Hence small sails and kites are a must. The warmer the day, the more the wind tends to cross-off north-north-east, which is always gusty. If it gets too hot, it can even turn north-east to easterly (offshore) and completely die off. A few minutes before that happens it blows noticeably warmer on the water, at which point it's time to get in quick or you'll have to swim home. With any luck, the all-important swell will join in to hide a few masts out back. The chances of big swell are higher in spring and autumn than summer, although the odds of wind drop to an even 50/50. The swell is huge in winter, but wind is rare and it rains a lot. Big swell means extremely challenging conditions – gusty winds, strong currents and a shorebreak (especially at high tide) mean it’s the preserve of experienced sailors. Two launches sit either side of rocks that divide the beach. Most stay north for cleaner waves and more constant wind – also a good call if you’re worried about the current dragging you onto the steep cliffs down south. The southern side is popular with wave newcomers, as the beach shelves more gently to leave a little more standing-depth water. Parking is free down south near 'Hotel Muchaxo’ – to the north, it costs a couple of Euros at 'Bar de Guincho’. Either way you'll have to carry your kit a fair distance to the water. Of course if there's no wind, surfing and SUP are excellent on the Atlantic swell, especially by Hotel Muchaxo.

This wide, sandy beach is a Portuguese Kite Tour contest venue. The region’s jet-set gather here in summer, when it’s mostly flat-water light-wind conditions. Waves only hit this beach with a big swell – a little larger than 'Tróia' but less powerful. Off-season south-westerlies produce much bigger waves.

Costa Vicentina between Sines and Sagres is one Portugal's wildest and most rugged coasts. The beautiful, steep cliffs, peppered with sandy beaches, are traditionally an area for surfing expeditions – kites and windsurfing kit are rarely seen. But with a bit of luck you can score good days here: like when north-westerly wind and swell coincide in winter. Ironically the thermal Nortada rarely blows strong enough in summertime, so the best chances come on clear, chilly winter days. Sheltered by capes, northerly blows pretty gusty in 'Vila Nova' and 'Odeceixe'. Cross-on low-pressure south-westerlies are also good, but only on the first day as swell and currents soon turn gnarly.

Separating the 'Delta des Rio Sado’ nature reserve from the ocean, this peninsular is special. The inland side offers perfect freeride and kiting conditions with a large expanse of standing-depth water. Westerly winds are particularly steady and the water mirror-flat. If you’re lucky, the local dolphins might even join in! On the Atlantic side, 'Praia Bico das Lulas’ is a medium wave spot with cross-shore wind in north-westerlies that rarely exceed Force 5. Conditions improve in winter when southerly storms whip up the waves. Best reached by ferry from Setubal.

This 'lite’ version of Lisbon’s Costa da Caparica has slightly smaller waves whose quality depends on various sandbanks. Although cross-shore north-westerly's weaker than in Caparica, the smaller swell’s good for first-time waverides so plenty of kiters and windsurfers visit. The charming forest backdrop is a bonus, while the dusty roads peppered with beach-bars are reminiscent of Brazil.

Nova Vaga at the southern end of the Costa da Caparica is the region's official and most popular kite spot. Although it sometimes gets big in wintertime, in summer with smaller swell it works perfectly for wave novices and first-time jumps. Best wind direction is cross-shore north-westerly Nortada which, in contrast to Guincho, blows weaker here and decreases in the evening.

This break next to Forte de São Julião only really works in winter, as the summer Nortada blows too gusty and offshore. Good days come with cross-onshore low pressure west-south-west to south-westerly wind. It’s not ideal though, even in its perfect wind, and kiting is positively dangerous as onshore gusts can loft you into a wall by the road. Other drawbacks include a dumping shorebreak in big swell and dirty water in southerly winds. Summer attracts crowds, both surfers on the water and sunbathers off it.

If you were baptised in the Tagus as a child, you should survive the brown waters of 'Raven Beach'. Although the sewage treatment has been improved in recent years, northerly wind still pushes a lot of debris ashore. Sharp oysters lurk in the silt, and hard-nosed swimmers share the scene in summer. Only works at high tide.

A great storm beach when it's too big everywhere else – even with huge winter swell, 'Praia do Torrão' stays pretty flat. Portugal's first seaside resort was opened in Trafaria in 1901, today the dark industrial charm of the shipping container pier at the end of the beach dominates the scene. Water quality and atmosphere are better elsewhere on Costa da Caparica.

When there's nothing but white water churning onto other beaches, Vapor Porto offers moderate conditions. It's popular with the locals for freestyle and freeride in summer Nortada too. The launch is from a small, not-so-clean beach east of the harbour. Current and chop increase further out.