Sigatoka

The SE trades are at their weakest near the whirling capital of Suva in eastern Viti Levu, so in Suva Lacala Bay the southerly and northerly winds associated with the beginning and end of high pressure phases are favourite. Protected by a long breakwater, the water’s very flat in front of the Hobie Cat Centre while decent waves break on the reefs further out – like the left-hander at the end of Sandbar Island. It’s a fair way offshore though, so don’t sail out alone. Just like Lacala Bay, Navua River Mouth suffers murky waters from the nearby estuary, but it’s very popular with the locals as the sandbars offer plenty of security. A kilometre upwind, waves on the reef offer the odd backside ride at high tide. While you’ll appreciate a four-wheel-drive in Navua, Pacific Harbour offers easy beach access and is just a walk from cafés and hostels. This makes the town a good base-camp for exploring the Coral Coast by car or taking the boat 40-minutes to Frigates. Alongside Cloudbreak, this is one of the biggest and most reliable waves in the area offering hollow barrels on a shallow reef. It’s best just after the trades set in – the more easterly the wind, the more offshore it gets. The other end of the scale from Frigates is 50km west on the lagoon in front of the Outrigger resort. Ten minutes further, Sigatoka offers an excellent beach-break. Black sand-dunes line this whole stretch of beach from Pacific Harbour, notching the wind up another 5 knots to hit 25 knots four or five days a week. Two kilometres downwind in 'Western Wreckers’ there’s flat water behind a sandbank and sailable reef at the end of the bay, but be warned that dropped kites will drift onto the reef every time. Sigatoka’s other drawback is its history of vehicle break-ins in the car-parks. Natadola is a reasonable reef-break, but not spectacular enough to travel halfway around the world for. Just a kilometre offshore, the channel’s well within range without a boat. But you’ll need one to reach Likuri Island, which lends it all the charm of Robinson Crusou. The western point of Vitu Levu’s Coral Coast is marked by the small town of Momi, which offers surf camps and hostels for overnight stays alongside a quality left called Mini Cloudbreak with hollow sections that still work on smaller swells. While you’ll need to organise your own boat to Momi Passage, the resorts that own the islands of Tavarua and Namotu pick their guests up. They own the breaks too, in the case of Cloudbreak, one of the best left-handers in the world with long clean faces and hollow sections – strictly experts only! While a lot of testosterone flows around Tavarua, Namotu is very relaxed with 25 guests at most. Flat water can be found in Namotu Lagoon, east of the island at mid to low tide or south from mid to high. High water also allows access to the waves to Loveshacks or at the eastern end of the reef in onshore conditions at 'Swimming Pools’. The highlight is Namotu Lefts, a long clean wave that breaks on the western reef with perfect cross-shore wind in the channel. The access is nothing like as limited at Manololailai Island although the reefs ensure it’s exclusively freeride.