A'ufaga

Starting in the east, a boat ride away and only fully revealed towards low tide, the rocky beach on Nu'ulua Island is uncharted territory, but its exposure to the trade winds and the orientation of the reef give it great potential. There’s good kiting on offer at A'ufaga, which is also open to the wind and has several breaks in the reef to cut out through. Great jumping on the windier days, but conditions aren’t quite as clean as further west. One of the most consistent breaks for wind and waves is Salani Left a hollow, fast wave breaking over shallow coral at the mouth of an estuary in front of Salani Surf Camp. The Camp controls access, so it’s easier to launch from their boat than the rivermouth. The prevailing wind blows cross-shore (cross-off ESE is ideal) but there’s not any great jumping here; all the action is concentrated in the small zone where the wave reels off into an adjacent deep-water channel. It’s a thrilling, powerful ride, but easy to get caught on the inside if you don't make it around the last section – which will leave you dashed on dry reef at lower water. It’s therefore very much a high tide spot. Tide’s not quite as critical at the uninhabited Nu'usafe'e Island; little more than a palm thicket on sand encircled by reef. Yet sitting proud of mainland Upolu, it’s wide open to the prevailing trade winds which blow cross-offshore to reputedly the island’s best break. It does get extremely shallow in places at low water, but there are quality waves to be had with cross-shore jumping opportunities elsewhere around the reef. If the worst should happen, you’ll be washed up into a lagoon that stretches to the mainland. Regular surfers only visit the Island on less windy days – but they do congregate at the world famous long left-hander at Boulders, which is (unfortunately for us!) completely sheltered from the trade winds. Definitely worth a visit though, and a real pleasure to surf. If you want to get away from the waves, try the large expanse of lagoon further west at Sa'anapu. It’s protected by the outer reef but exposed to the trade winds, so is ideal for intermediates and even suitable for beginners. The west coast is completely sheltered from the trades, but the shores of the less developed but larger island of Savai’i are just a ferry ride away and remain entirely untapped for windsports.