Jomtien

Five hours south-east of Bangkok near the Cambodian border is Ko Chang, called 'Elephant Island’ for its characteristic shape. After Phuket, it’s the country’s second largest island and almost 70% contiguous tropical forest. It’s hardly a classic, but if you’re relaxing here in winter and are treated to northerly monsoon wind you can get out at White Sand Beach. Ko Samet is busier but also offers some lovely beaches – SW summer winds work best on Tien Beach in the south and on 'Glass Beach’ Hat Sai Keo. In Rayong Province on the facing mainland, the sandy beach of Ban Phe is 1km east of the harbour where the Ko Samet ferries dock. The locals picnic here, and watersports enthusiasts gather at Ban Phe Windsurfing Club who run a hire centre and also organise crossings to Ko Samet. This former fishing village’s development (cafés, internet, shops.) was driven by backpackers following the Sukhumvit Road all the way down the coast from Bangkok. Ram Pung Beach is another unspoilt venue for summer SW-W winds, but development gets noticeably denser heading towards Asia’s largest resort an hour further north-west. Pattaya works best in northerly winds, so it’s ideal in winter. South of the town centre, families tend to favour the 6km-long sandy beach at Jomtien as it’s not quite so busy. Because Pattaya looks like an anthill – there’s a good view of it from Khao Pattaya hill at the southern end of the bay. As it gets dark, the seething masses shift from the beach to the party mile 'Walking Street’. As late-night revellers leave the bars at dawn, you can charter a fishing boat from the harbour to the secluded freeride beaches on Ko Lin and Ko Larn islands, 2.5 hours offshore. North of town, near the massive wooden 'Sanctuary of Truth’ temple, Naklua Beach normally gets more wind than Jomtien. The beach is a bit small for kiters though. Halfway to Bangkok, it’s worth a detour to the local spot Tabsai Beach. Sure, the water might be brown but the atmosphere’s still sophisticated. Always take the tolled expressway system to – and in – Bangkok unless you fancy a day in chaotic traffic! Twice the size of Berlin, seemingly every suburb in this mega-city has a centre of its own. As one of the world’s most liberal cities it offers some striking contrasts: bustling metropolis meets idyllic village, time-honoured tradition meets all-out westernisation. The first venue on the Gulf’s western shore is Khao-Den in Phetchaburi. 40km further south, Cha-am is another local favourite – even the king occasionally visits. But lately Hua Hin has become the hotspot for kiters. Its development, turquoise waters and wide sandy beach give it a Honolulu vibe, particularly in March and April with a reliable 10-20 knot afternoon thermal. Southerly wind is pretty solid at KhaoTakiab Bay Beach, south of a temple famously guarded by monkeys. Tourist numbers markedly fall as the road parts company with the coastline, so the beaches of Pak Nam Bran are still a bit of a secret even though southerlies fill in very nicely.